Did you know that cotton is the biggest consumer of water in the world? Cotton is the biggest consumer of water in the world: it takes more than 10,000 liters of water to produce just one pair of jeans! In addition, the cotton plant requires numerous treatments with insecticides and toxic fertilizers that damage the soil.
However, cotton remains an extremely popular material in the fabric industry and demand continues to grow. This makes agriculture the biggest cause of pollution in the world, not to mention the extremely difficult working conditions in the fields.
To reduce the harmful impact of traditional cotton farming, encouraging initiatives will help promote a positive transformation in the coming years. This is the case with cotton in conversion.
There is already an alternative: organic cotton! Regulated by strict standards, organic farming is more reasonable, with a much stronger environmental and social impact than traditional farming. Organic cotton therefore seems to be the obvious choice. And yet...
Currently, only 1% of the world's cotton production is organic (a figure mentioned by Textile Exchange during COP26). And for good reason: in order to switch from conventional to organic farming, farmers must enter a transition period that can last up to three years. During these three years, the farmers apply new management methods to clean and restore the soil, avoiding the use of toxic substances prohibited in organic farming. To ensure strict compliance with the rules, farmers are audited by the certification bodies.
And three years is a long time for a farmer who makes a living from growing cotton. Starting this transition is therefore a difficult decision. During this long and limiting period, the cotton producer's activity is jeopardized by the loss of income and a drastic drop in revenue, as well as the complex organic certification processes.
The transition to growing organic and more sustainable cotton is known as "cotton in conversion". We'll explain.
What is cotton in conversion?
This is simply the name given to the cotton fiber that transitions from conventional to organic farming. To be clear: the cotton grown is certified organic cotton in conversion.
The standards are strict, right from the start of the conversion process. Ultimately, they are the same as for organic cotton, once the transition period is over. The specifications must be followed to the letter from the start of the process in order to achieve the ultimate goal: the coveted organic certification.
Once the process has started, synthetic pesticides (insecticides, herbicides, etc.) and GMOs are limited or even banned. The products used in organic farming are better for the health of the soil, people and ecosystems.
At the same time, farmers practice crop rotation, alternating various plants on the plots to encourage reasonable use of the land's resources and allow the soil to regenerate. The result is efficient and sustainable production that favors biodiversity without prematurely degrading the soil.
Also with the aim of saving precious resources, special attention is paid to water. Caring for the soil by alternating plants naturally makes it richer. As such, it retains more rainwater, reducing the amount of water needed to irrigate the plots. In addition, strict regulations on the use of pesticides make it possible to avoid wasting large quantities of water to dilute them, as happens in conventional cotton growing.
Lastly, working conditions are also improved in the organic cotton crop in conversion. The use of natural fertilizers prevents producers from being exposed to toxic substances. This is a significant development, given that in conventional cotton growing, workers do not always have adequate protective equipment. Inhaling chemicals has therefore led to many chronic diseases.
Sources: Global Organic Textile Standard, "ORGANIC IN CONVERSION QUESTIONS & ANSWERS" and GOTS main features
What is the difference between in-conversion cotton and organic cotton?
Cotton in conversion or "in transition" complies with organic standards: saving water, banning or restricting toxic chemicals, crop rotation and respect for workers.
The difference? This transition is just one stage of the organic journey, covering the famous three-year period - studied and required by organic standards such as GOTS 6.0 - which allows the land to eliminate all the "harmful" substances used during conventional farming methods.
If these toxins are not completely eliminated from these soils, farmers will not receive the "organic cotton" certification. Furthermore, in the first year of transition, the cotton will continue to be sold as conventional cotton. In the second and third years, it can be sold as organic cotton in conversion.
In any case, cotton producers are assessed and audited throughout the conversion process to ensure that their practices follow the rules laid down by the certification bodies.
Consumer behavior is also changing! More and more consumers are considering their environmental impact, including when buying their textiles. Naturally, they are opting for environmentally friendly materials, produced and cultivated using more responsible and regulated methods. Organic cotton is one of the most popular materials, with demand expected to rise steadily over the next few years.
The problem? It's relatively expensive, with prices rising in recent months, largely because demand exceeds supply!
In-conversion organic cotton is an attractive solution to offset organic cotton supply problems, while continuing to offer a sustainable alternative to conventional cotton.
Movement towards sustainable agriculture
Therefore, the aim of this support program for farmers in conversion is to make practical changes. With global environmental awareness and the shared desire for more sustainable clothing, we need to find solutions that encourage environmentally friendly practices.
This is what Maudlin Merchandise sees in organic cotton in conversion: a useful approach to offering quality textiles produced in a sustainable and reasonable way.
This program offers genuine support to cotton producers in transition to organic production, while also benefiting the communities around the farms, direct customers and end consumers. Fewer toxic products and more alternatives to conventional cotton: an effective response to the growing demand for more sustainable textiles, without jeopardizing the health of farm dwellers!
Ultimately, organic cotton will be put to better use, it will be more appealing and prices will balance out, allowing more customers to have access to high-quality, sustainable textiles.
